If your e-bike chain is too long, shorten it by removing links with a chain tool (chain breaker), then reconnecting the chain with a matching quick link or the correct joining pin for your chain. On an e-bike, correct chain length is extra important because motor power can turn a slightly wrong length or a weak connection into skipping, chain drops, or fast drivetrain wear. This guide will walk you through how to getting the chain length right for e-bikes, cutting it safely, and doing the post-fix checks that prevent skipping or derailments under motor power.
Why chain length matters more on an e-bike
An e-bike often sees higher torque and more abrupt load changes than a regular bike.
- Mid drive e-bikes send motor torque through the chain and cassette, so chain length and a solid connection matter the most here.
- Hub drive e-bikes do not drive the chain with the motor, but chain length still affects shifting, chain slap, and derailment risk.
If you only take one takeaway, avoid making the chain too short. A slightly long chain usually shifts poorly, but a too short chain can overstress the derailleur and fail under power.
Before you cut anything: confirm it is too long and not worn out
Fast chain wear check
A common quick check is measuring 12 links. Pin to pin across 12 full links should be 12 inches. If it is stretched beyond common wear limits, replacing the chain is usually smarter than shortening it, especially on an e-bike where worn parts skip under load.
Try the no cut fix when it applies
If your bike has horizontal dropouts or an adjustable tensioner setup (more common on single speed or internal gear hub builds), you may be able to remove slack by adjusting wheel position or tension instead of removing links.
New chains are usually longer than needed
If you installed a new chain, it is normal for it to arrive longer than your drivetrain requires. Sizing it is part of installation.
Know your connection type first (this decides how you rejoin it)
Quick link (master link) vs joining pin
Most riders will reconnect using a quick link that matches the chain speed.
Some chains require a specific joining pin. If your chain uses a joining pin system, get the correct pin before you start, otherwise you can end up stuck mid job.
Inner and outer links matter
Chains alternate inner and outer links. Your cut needs to leave chain ends that can reconnect properly. In practice, you often remove links in even counts so the ends mate correctly with your connector.
Avoid the push the same pin back in habit
On many modern narrow chains, especially higher speed drivetrains, pushing a rivet out and then forcing it back in can create a weak or stiff link. On e-bikes, that weak point is more likely to fail when assist kicks in.
E-bike specific setup: match chain and quick link to your drivetrain
Before shortening, confirm your drivetrain speed. 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 speed chains are different widths. Your quick link must match the same speed and be compatible with the chain. Mixing a random quick link is a common cause of stiff links and skipping.
Tools you will want (minimal but correct)
- Chain tool (chain breaker)
- Quick link pliers (helpful but optional)
- Ruler or tape measure and a marker
- Matching quick link or correct joining pin
- Chain lube and a rag
E-bike tip: carry a mini chain tool and a spare matching quick link. E-bikes are heavier, ride farther, and put more stress on chains, so a trail side fix kit saves headaches.
How to size chain length correctly for e-bikes
For mid drive e-bikes (most important)
Use a conservative sizing method so the chain is never too short in the biggest gear combinations. A reliable approach is the big big check.
- Route the chain around the largest front chainring and the largest rear cog without routing through the derailleur.
- Pull it snug, then add the extra length needed for derailleur wrap and safe movement.
- Mark the cut point so the chain ends will reconnect cleanly with your quick link or joining pin.
This helps you avoid the two common failures on e-bikes: a chain that is too long and slaps and shifts poorly, or a chain that is too short and stresses the derailleur under assist.
For hub drive e-bikes with a derailleur
You can use the same sizing method. You still want enough tension in smaller cogs to prevent sag, and enough length to avoid derailleur strain in larger cogs.
For single speed or internal gear hub e-bikes
You size mostly for tension. Adjust wheel position or a tensioner first, then remove links only if you cannot achieve proper tension within the adjustment range.
Step by step: shorten an e-bike chain with a chain tool
1) Power down and stabilize the bike
Turn the e-bike off and remove the battery if your setup makes the drivetrain likely to move unexpectedly. Put the bike on a stand or flip it carefully.
2) Reduce tension
Shift to the smallest rear cog. If you have multiple front chainrings, shift to the smallest chainring too. This gives you slack and makes the chain easier to handle.
3) Find the connection point
If you have a quick link, rotate the cranks until it is accessible. If not, choose the link you will break with the chain tool.
4) Size first, then mark the cut
Do not guess. Use your sizing method, then mark the exact rivet you will push out. Double check that the chain ends will reconnect properly.
5) Push out the rivet with the chain tool
Seat the chain fully in the tool and align the driving pin with the rivet. Turn slowly and steadily until the chain separates.
6) Remove the excess links
Remove links until you reach your marked length. Make sure the remaining ends match the connector you will use.
7) Reconnect correctly
If using a quick link, install it and lock it according to the link design.
If using a joining pin system, use the correct joining pin and follow the proper steps for that chain.
8) Check for a stiff link
Flex the connection area side to side and bend it slightly to ensure it articulates freely. A stiff link can cause clicking, poor shifting, and skipping that becomes obvious under assist.
9) Lube and wipe
Apply lube, pedal backward to distribute it, then wipe excess. Too much lube attracts grit and speeds up wear, especially on e-bikes ridden in all weather.
10) Test shifting under low assist first
Shift through all gears under light pedaling and low assist. Only increase assist after it is quiet and smooth.
Emergency trail side shortening on an e-bike (last resort)
It is possible to do a temporary fix without proper tools, but it is risky. Pins can bend and plates can deform, and reconnecting securely is difficult.
Best case is carrying a spare quick link and a mini chain tool, removing the damaged link, and reconnecting.
If you must limp home, keep assist low, spin a higher cadence, and avoid hard starts. Once home, redo the connection properly and replace any damaged parts.
Post fix checks that prevent skipping and chain drops on e-bikes
- Check derailleur alignment and shift across the cassette again.
- Confirm the chain is routed correctly through derailleur pulleys.
- Listen for rhythmic clicks that repeat once per chain revolution, which often indicates a stiff link.
- Do a short ride on low assist, then recheck the connection and tension before riding hard.
Common e-bike chain mistakes and quick fixes
Problem: You cut the chain too short
What you’ll notice: The derailleur cage looks stretched forward in the bigger rear cogs, shifting into large cogs feels tight or impossible, and the bike may bind or chatter under assist.
Fix: Stop riding. Add length back the safe way: install a new chain and size it correctly (big big method), or replace the chain if you can’t add links cleanly. After fixing, test on low assist before using full power.
Problem: Wrong quick link for your chain speed or type
What you’ll notice: The chain feels “notchy,” you get a repeating click once per chain revolution, or it skips under load even though everything looks aligned.
Fix: Use a quick link that matches your chain speed (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) and is compatible with your chain standard. Replace the quick link and recheck for a stiff link at the connection.
Problem: You pushed a rivet out and reused it on a narrow chain
What you’ll notice: A stiff link at the join, noisy running, or worst case the connection starts to separate when you accelerate in higher assist.
Fix: Do not trust that link on an e-bike. Reconnect with a proper quick link or the correct joining pin for that chain. If the plates are distorted or the rivet feels loose, replace the chain.
Problem: Skipping is caused by wear, not chain length
What you’ll notice: The chain skips mostly when you pedal hard or use higher assist, often in your most-used cogs, even after you “fixed” the length.
Fix: Check chain wear first. If the chain is worn, replace it. If skipping continues, the cassette or chainring may also be worn (a new chain can skip on worn cogs). Replace the worn parts as a set, then size the new chain correctly.
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FAQs
Can I shorten an e-bike chain without removing it from the bike?
Often yes. You can break the chain, remove links, and reconnect on the bike as long as you can access the link and keep the drivetrain stable.
Do I need a new quick link every time?
Some quick links are reusable and some are intended for single use. If you are not sure, treat it as single use, especially on a mid drive e-bike.
Why does my e-bike chain skip after shortening?
Common causes are a stiff link at the connection, incorrect derailleur routing, mismatched quick link, worn cassette, or incorrect chain length.
Is the process different for a mid drive e-bike?
The steps are the same, but the margin for error is smaller. Be conservative with length, avoid weak reconnections, and test on low assist first.
Once your chain length is correct and the connection is smooth, an e-bike should feel simple again: quieter pedaling, cleaner shifts, and fewer surprises when you turn up assist.
